To Rio Gallegos

Flat. Think of the flattest place you know, the Fens, for instance and then image it even flatter and with fewer features. God must have been wielding a flat iron when he made the 400kms section of Patagonia that we went through today. Not a tree exists, and if it did it would probably be horizontal from the wind. A few sheep, fewer Rheas and a handful of guanacos and that was about it. Strangely thrilling though. Mainly because we practically went the whole width of the continent today - it's so skinny at this point.

We are in a an Atlantic port town called Rio Gallegos, pop 98,000. The charming GM of our central hotel told us that the town was a complete dump but wealthy because it was an oil town and full of well paid workers who all fly home to somewhere other for the weekend.

It is covered in graffiti, really almost every wall has something spray painted on it. It's not even clever graffiti, just a mess. However, a few gems were waiting for the casual visitor. Small stuff, but we rallyists take our pleasures where we can.

First stop was the British Restaurant for a late lunch. Danny and Rabia had beaten us to it and recommended a couple of dishes. We had a British Salad as well as we felt we ought. Next stop was the 'Museo Malvinas'. The 'helpful' chap in the tourist office (not sure why they have one of those) directed us to it. It was after he discovered that we were British and maybe his idea of fun was to send us on a wild goose chase because it was nowhere near where he said it was. When we eventually found it it was closed! Actually, everyone here is very friendly really and charmingly polite, even when they know we are from the U.K.!

Next, the 'Pioneer Museum' an old house, built in Britain and transported here for a Scottish Doctor to live in around 100 years ago. He was the first doc in Santa Cruz province, an unimaginably huge area. It was rather charming and contained some interesting artefacts and photographs of times gone by.

The ladies of this town were able to keep up with the fashions and wear fine clothes as all ships had to go through the Straights of Magellan before the Panama Canal was constructed and would stop in nearby Punta Arenas depositing exciting things for this community that really is beyond the back of beyond.

Although a dump we have had a strangely satisfying day. All new places are interesting, sometimes only in their dullness but, of interest, nevertheless. We may never want to come back, in fact, I can almost guarantee it, quite frankly. We are immediately west of the Falkland Islands and will soon be toppling off the end of the world. We're glad that we called by.

Adrian was a happy chap today. First, he drove Fritz and Lang's Model A for a while and then he discovered a steam loco graveyard in Rio Gallegos. Rich rewards!

Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid robbed the bank here on February 14th, 1905 before fleeing back across the bleak, Patagonian steppe. It was probably the last interesting thing that happened.
























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