Dreamy Haa.

Haa valley is my special place in Bhutan. Remote, cold, outstandingly beautiful it is the essence of the spirit of Bhutan.  Of the few tourists who come to this country only a round 3% make it to Haa and even fewer stay the night. 

A couple of years ago I heard about a civil servant, from Paro Dzong, who had converted the farmhouse that had been in his family for generations into a home stay.  I went to look and couldn't believe what I saw. It was marvellous beyond words in every way.  I've stayed there a couple of times since and never fail to be overwhelmed by it.

I really wanted the rally to have that experience but, there were not enough rooms.  The owner suggested that the local farmers would be happy to have guests in their houses - a first for them.  And so it was.  We were dotted about in the village and all agreed that we had the night of the rally. Bed rolls on the floor, a long drop, a cold tap, charming, hospitable hosts, bed tea and all with a the cows underneath and the hay above.  It was a night none will ever forget.

So much hard work had been done to make our stay special.  Haa is very cold and a huge bonfire was lit and we sang and danced around whilst drinking ara, the local hooch, and eating yet more delicious food.  It was magical.

In the morning I got up at first light and went for a walk. There was a very sharp frost and that, along with the crystal clear air was the best start to any day you could have.

The drive along the valley, to the capital, Thimphu, is equally dreamy.  Little changed, just people going through the circle if life as they always have.  Small scale farming, obviously jaw-dropping scenery and happy, smiling beautiful people.   How I love that place.  

We're in Thimphu now, the capital and staying in a Taj. The contrast could not be greater.  Being. A Taj it is very comfortable with great food.  But, as a night to remember it doesn't come close to our experience in Haa valley.

We woke up to the terrible, deeply shocking news about Paris. Poor Paris. Poor world. We are in a country of gentle smiling, genuine happy people. Why can't everywhere be like this? What a sad world we live in and when will it stop?