A river of tears.

Tears. Rivers of tears were shed by rally hardened world travellers, overcome with emotion at what we saw today. 

From Bumthang we entered the little visited east of Bhutan and drove on some of the wildest and. most difficult roads in the country, likened by some to the death road in Bolivia.  But our rewards were great indeed. The skies were deepest azure all day and the crystal clear air ensured that the far reaching views were as good as it could be.

To reach Mongar, the driving time is 8-9 hours and every minute was full of unadulterated joy.  The snowy high Himalayas were on their showy best form, especially when we crossed Trumshing la Pass, which was covered in bright new prayer flags for the 4th King's birthday. It was here that many crews were overcome by the overwhelming, spiritual beauty they encountered. All agreed you could not put into words the visceral power of standing in such a place.  Max Stephenson, who has been driving around the world since 1972, said it was the best days driving and  most majestic scenery he has ever seen. Exceptionally well travelled Maria d'Sousa said you could never describe it you just had to be here and in it.

We drove for miles along impossibly narrow rocky ledges, clinging to the mountainside, with the longest drops you can imagine that disappeared into the abyss. We passed little habitation today, just a few small settlements in a couple of valleys.  For the most part, we drove through unadulterated forest that went on and on for ever on the folded mountains into the distance. The forest has never been explored - it would be a David Attenborough dream - but it is known that tigers and leopards live there as they have been seen on the road at night.

The rally organisers had arranged a magnificent hot picnic lunch - cooked by the Royal families' personal chef in the east - to be delivered to refresh the crews on the long drive.  Spirits were very high as all enjoyed the delicious food perched on rocks, while stories of the unbelievable, emotional experiences of the morning were shared.  They had no idea that the afternoons driving would be just as exhilarating and majestic.

Frank Bird and Ross Oakman, two of the coolest guys on the rally, lost their brakes - imagine that on the twisty narrow mountain roads! A brake pipe had broken on a rock and brake fluid had leaked out. In their usual unflappable way they made no fuss and it was duly repaired and they continued on their journey. Pads' Buick, Stanley, had a steering problem but a couple of screws later all was well.

As we dropped down from the high mountains we entered a small sub-tropical region with beautiful rice terraces and where bananas, papayas, and kumquats are grown.  We then climbed up to Mongar our home for two nights.  The whole rally timing has been centred on tomorrow and the annual Mongar tchetsu (festival).

Festivals in Bhutan have deep religious significance and people come from miles around, all dressed in their very best clothes to witness it.  All the dances are performed by monks and are a riot of colour.  Very few chillips (foreigners) get to Mongar tchetsu because of its remote location and lack of infrastructure but, we lucky rallyists will all don our best local dress, join in the fun and have the time of our lives.