In search of tigers......
On the first recce, I drove with Liz between Kolkata and Siliguri for the first time. Previously, I had always either flown or taken the Darjeeling Mail overnight train. Having driven it now, it is not something I would ever repeat and we certainly couldn't subject the rally to it. It was a total nightmare, suffice it to say.
The cars could not be transported before customs clearance and the customs officials would not start the clearing process until they had the driver and passport in their sight. As an interesting side tour we went to Sunderbans, home of the Royal Bengal tiger, 103 reside there as of the recent census.
We didn't see any, sadly, although the chances of that are slim, but we did see fresh pug marks, which was pretty exciting. There was obviously a tiger close by, but it was hiding from us, the scamp.
We did see a large croc, tiger food (deer), lovely birds and some unusual things on the muddy banks. There were abundant mudskippers and tiny little crabs some yellow, some red and some blue.
There are no cars in Sunderbans so it makes a slightly unusual place to start a rally. All travel is by boat. Very, very few tourist make it there and the infrastructure is poor. However, our lodge had made a great effort for us and fed us tasty food and did their best to look after us well. We were next to a very small village that was truly delightful to walk around. The living here is simple and difficult with most houses made of mud walls with roofs made of rice stalks. All is speck and span though and the people are gentle and welcoming. God knows what they made of our invasion. They see almost no foreigners there. It was serenely beautiful.
On our full day on our two boats, going deep into the reserve, we all found it very relaxing and you really do feel as if you are on another universe. One boat turned back before the one I was in - lightweights - and missed the opportunity to be of great service to some fishermen.
They had been away from home for nine days and had travelled into the most remote part of the delta for a meagre catch to sell. The fishing boats are tiny and there is no shelter at all. At night, the fishermen are particularly vulnerable to tiger attack. Bengal tigers are ferocious swimmers and can cover 40kms a day. Anyway, they were rowing yes, rowing as they didn't have an engine, back to their village still 8 hard hours away and it was getting dark. I should also add they they were starting to cook their dinner on an open fire with a pot on it. The little boat is entirely made of wood...
We tied them up to the back of our boat and towed them back in no time at all. To say they were grateful is an understatement. They looked so exhausted it was upsetting. It is very difficult for us to begin to understand how hard life is for the local people.
Last evening we were entertained by the "Sunderban Rayal (sic) Binapani Drama Association" to an "artificial melodrama". I can hardly begin to tell you how fantastic it was. We were all entranced by it and joined in lustily in true pantomime style. It was magnificent. Wonderful over the top, caked on make up, fabulous costumes, a gripping story, outstanding performances, musicians and a man who's job it was to raise and lower the fixed position microphones. All performed under the stars in the middle of the Ganges river delta. We all loved very part of it. I should add that it was the only time we saw a tiger in Sunderbans too.
Unforgettable and many of our number said it would live with them for the rest of their lives and one nameless heathen ( Chris Evans) said he'd go to the theatre if it was always like that.
I'm writing this on the short flight up to Bagdogra to get to Siliguri. The cars are all there waiting and Charlie and his team have been working hard to get any niggles that have occurred during their long voyages rectified.
Barbara, those photos are absolutely amazing, thanks so much for sharing them.
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