A rally split..

A rest day in Punakha gave the crews time to relax and get the routine fettling done.  There was no major work needed.  In the morning some crews went for a hike to the Temple of Fertility, others went white water rafting and two - Pads Walker and Jane rode up vertical hills on mountain bikes - what a feat! A leisurely picnic lunch by the river was enjoyed before visiting the Dzong, Bhutan's most beautiful.

The following morning, the rally split, about half the crews went to Phobjhika Valley and the other half down towards the Indian border to Gelaphu.  We will reunite in Trongsa.  The Gelaphu route was the "long" way and, supposedly, the most challenging. But, in this mountainous country, with heavy monsoons and a massive road widening programme things change rapidly.

In fact, the "short" route proved the most tricky and the "long" route had new hardtop for most of the way.

Those going to Phobjhika battled seemingly endless roadworks, landslide, seas of mud, very narrow ledge roads with drops down to eternity. The climb was ever upwards towards Pele la Pass, which we will cross tomorrow.  The BMW had a problem with electrics but Simon and Hector soon got them on their way.  The mighty Rolls Royce of Jorges Ruiz, had a problem with it's horn - an essential requirement on the hair pin bends encountered continually, but it was rectified before setting off. All cars got through with skilful driving and taking their time.  It was very satisfying, challenging and, with the ultimate reward of dropping down into Phobjhika, a wide valley and home to overwintering black necked cranes. Phobjhika is high (3000m) and very cold.  There is some farming mainly of potatoes and turnips.  The cranes fly down from the Tibetan plateau because it's warmer - it's hard to imagine the cold they are leaving.

Our home is a supremely cosy hotel which overlooks the wide open valley, a rarity in this country of endless narrow valleys. Our rooms have bukari wood burning stoves to ward off the below freezing temperatures.  We visited the crane information centre, where we learned that 106 cranes have made it so far, the first arrived about 10 days ago.  We can see the cranes dancing on the marshy valley floor.  Their main predators here are foxes and, amazingly, leopards which have been filmed here. How thrilling.

There is no internet here at all.  The report from the "long" route will follow shortly.