We managed a couple of hours sleep before preparing for an 8.00 departure for the Kazak border, another 500 kms. Our wonderful friends from the Siberian Old Timer's club had been up all night helping all the competitors who had broken down at the side of the road. Everyone who encountered this fabulous group was astounded at their generosity, friendliness and expert mechanical skills in getting them back on the road. We had rather more terminal problems but my one lasting impression of the tiny bit of Russia we saw will be our new friends some of whom travel to the U.K. and, I hope, will come to stay with us soon. They had decided that their trailer was not strong enough to hold our car for such a long journey; they had all ready had a blow out the night before. But, they had organised for a proper car transporter to come to take us.
We waited until about 11.30 for this to turn up. It was sad to see the rally departing and be the last ones in the car park but a few of the car club stayed and kept us company. including Aleks and his dad, Sergey who both had their laptops with lots of pics of all the cars and restorations they had done. Eventually, we were loaded and a fond farewell was given to our Russian friends. We set off hoping to be at the border by about 4.00pm. A few miles down the road a front tyre explode in a very dramatic fashion. Luckily our driver, another Sergey, controlled it very well and there was nothing coming towards us. We felt that we had looked at death though. After a while I felt that we were not going in the right direction. Sergey had no English and so it was difficult. We arrived in a city, which felt all wrong, and went to a garage that turned out to be where he worked. He wanted to change the oil. We were in Birsk, over 100kms in the wrong direction from where we were going! So, it was 2.30 and now we had over 600kms to the border. It was a low point. I was concerned that we would be alone to get over as everyone would have already gone through. We needed a tow to get through and so it was a rather worrying situation. The rally organisers make it very clear that you have to get yourself out of problems and the rally always moves on, understandably, but it made us a little anxious, we had to get across the border. So off went, yet again, with A sitting in the passenger seat of this very old, x- Japanese right hand drive lorry and with me, perched on a bit in the middle without any back support; oh joy. The view would have been better than from the car had it not been for the crazy paving windscreen. Sergey spent nearly all of his time on his phone, including texting, and chain smoking
We reached the border at 9.30. Four other crews were still there. Karen and Richard in their Rolls, Pamela and Andrew in a Viva, Diana and Andrew in the little Renault and eventually, Tim on the motorbike arrived. A transporter was there to take the cars to Almaty for repair. Nothing was straightforward, of course, but luckily we had the help of Daniel, form Kyrgyz Concepts who are to be our agent's whilst in the Stans. It was a bleak, freezing cold place but having company helped to keep our spirits up and we were still smiling.
More waiting, more coldness, more exhaustion and we evenually made it through and were in Kazhakstan.We arrived at our hotel in Semey at just past 6; yet another sleepless night. This was a Soviet style monstrosity but not quite as dreadful as the night before although it was a close call. Up at 7.30 and more stuff to organise to get the cars to Almaty. We wanted the transporter to go on without us and get there as quickly as possibe. It was still over 1,000kms to Almaty and none of us wanted to be in a rattling minibus crawling along beside it on rough roads. The driver's had to sign a document and get in Notorised to enable this to happen. We also had to pay for an armed guard to accompany the cars. Faff, and even more faff ensued although Daniel was a great fixer. We wanted to fly stright to Almaty and miss out the intermediate stops that the rest of the rally was making. The commercial flight was full and so we agreed that the 9of us would charter a plane which Daniel was able to fix for us. It was due to leave in the late afternoon and so we had some free time.We all went and had an excellent lunch and spent the rest of the time laughing about what a truly, dreadful few days we had all had. We all are agreed that you have to be here to realise just how damned hard this rally is. We were all dreaming about the Intercontinental Hotel In Almaty. Remember, we had been camping in sub zero temperatures, staying in grotty dumps and getting very little sleep for days and days. After sleeping in our clothes for most of the time the thought of lovely linen, a laundry and, most of all, a wonderful bathroom was very, very exciting.The physical toll is one thng but the emotional toll is something else. Coupled with he lack of sleep, the harshness of the climate and the sheer wierdness of what we are all doing it is exhausting. But we are still laughing abut it and not down hearted. Like all the best adventures it will be easier to recall with hindsight. It is amazing how things are constantly changing, a small high, a big low and then a huge high and then the pits all in the space of about 1 hour.
So, we packed into a brand new little plane and set off for Almaty, a two hour flight. The plane was billed as an 8 +1 seater. Tim was on the +1 which was actually the loo, albeit with a very comfy leather seat. we joked that he was in the first class compartment as he had a little screen to pull across. A great, smooth flight saw us arrive in Almaty. The taxi drive to the hotel was an experience too. It was dark but the glitzyness of the place was staggering. So, that is where we are now. I am tying this, in my hotel dressing gown (the luxury!) as Adrian still snoozes; it is daylight now and the view from our room is lovely with snowy mountains towering over us. Priority for the day is to organise a garage to fit the new gearbox that George is bringing out for us on Monday and then we can enjoy exploring the city. Unfortunately, because of the time involved in getting a visa the arliest G can fly is Monday aftrnoon after collecting his passport in the morning. He tried very hard at the Embassy, explainng why he was coming but there was no give. This means that time will be tight as the rally leaves here on Tuesday. We will have some catching up to do but, all being well, will be BACK IN!
We waited until about 11.30 for this to turn up. It was sad to see the rally departing and be the last ones in the car park but a few of the car club stayed and kept us company. including Aleks and his dad, Sergey who both had their laptops with lots of pics of all the cars and restorations they had done. Eventually, we were loaded and a fond farewell was given to our Russian friends. We set off hoping to be at the border by about 4.00pm. A few miles down the road a front tyre explode in a very dramatic fashion. Luckily our driver, another Sergey, controlled it very well and there was nothing coming towards us. We felt that we had looked at death though. After a while I felt that we were not going in the right direction. Sergey had no English and so it was difficult. We arrived in a city, which felt all wrong, and went to a garage that turned out to be where he worked. He wanted to change the oil. We were in Birsk, over 100kms in the wrong direction from where we were going! So, it was 2.30 and now we had over 600kms to the border. It was a low point. I was concerned that we would be alone to get over as everyone would have already gone through. We needed a tow to get through and so it was a rather worrying situation. The rally organisers make it very clear that you have to get yourself out of problems and the rally always moves on, understandably, but it made us a little anxious, we had to get across the border. So off went, yet again, with A sitting in the passenger seat of this very old, x- Japanese right hand drive lorry and with me, perched on a bit in the middle without any back support; oh joy. The view would have been better than from the car had it not been for the crazy paving windscreen. Sergey spent nearly all of his time on his phone, including texting, and chain smoking
We reached the border at 9.30. Four other crews were still there. Karen and Richard in their Rolls, Pamela and Andrew in a Viva, Diana and Andrew in the little Renault and eventually, Tim on the motorbike arrived. A transporter was there to take the cars to Almaty for repair. Nothing was straightforward, of course, but luckily we had the help of Daniel, form Kyrgyz Concepts who are to be our agent's whilst in the Stans. It was a bleak, freezing cold place but having company helped to keep our spirits up and we were still smiling.
More waiting, more coldness, more exhaustion and we evenually made it through and were in Kazhakstan.We arrived at our hotel in Semey at just past 6; yet another sleepless night. This was a Soviet style monstrosity but not quite as dreadful as the night before although it was a close call. Up at 7.30 and more stuff to organise to get the cars to Almaty. We wanted the transporter to go on without us and get there as quickly as possibe. It was still over 1,000kms to Almaty and none of us wanted to be in a rattling minibus crawling along beside it on rough roads. The driver's had to sign a document and get in Notorised to enable this to happen. We also had to pay for an armed guard to accompany the cars. Faff, and even more faff ensued although Daniel was a great fixer. We wanted to fly stright to Almaty and miss out the intermediate stops that the rest of the rally was making. The commercial flight was full and so we agreed that the 9of us would charter a plane which Daniel was able to fix for us. It was due to leave in the late afternoon and so we had some free time.We all went and had an excellent lunch and spent the rest of the time laughing about what a truly, dreadful few days we had all had. We all are agreed that you have to be here to realise just how damned hard this rally is. We were all dreaming about the Intercontinental Hotel In Almaty. Remember, we had been camping in sub zero temperatures, staying in grotty dumps and getting very little sleep for days and days. After sleeping in our clothes for most of the time the thought of lovely linen, a laundry and, most of all, a wonderful bathroom was very, very exciting.The physical toll is one thng but the emotional toll is something else. Coupled with he lack of sleep, the harshness of the climate and the sheer wierdness of what we are all doing it is exhausting. But we are still laughing abut it and not down hearted. Like all the best adventures it will be easier to recall with hindsight. It is amazing how things are constantly changing, a small high, a big low and then a huge high and then the pits all in the space of about 1 hour.
So, we packed into a brand new little plane and set off for Almaty, a two hour flight. The plane was billed as an 8 +1 seater. Tim was on the +1 which was actually the loo, albeit with a very comfy leather seat. we joked that he was in the first class compartment as he had a little screen to pull across. A great, smooth flight saw us arrive in Almaty. The taxi drive to the hotel was an experience too. It was dark but the glitzyness of the place was staggering. So, that is where we are now. I am tying this, in my hotel dressing gown (the luxury!) as Adrian still snoozes; it is daylight now and the view from our room is lovely with snowy mountains towering over us. Priority for the day is to organise a garage to fit the new gearbox that George is bringing out for us on Monday and then we can enjoy exploring the city. Unfortunately, because of the time involved in getting a visa the arliest G can fly is Monday aftrnoon after collecting his passport in the morning. He tried very hard at the Embassy, explainng why he was coming but there was no give. This means that time will be tight as the rally leaves here on Tuesday. We will have some catching up to do but, all being well, will be BACK IN!
Dear Barbara and Adrian,
ReplyDeleteYou are true adventurers! We learned of your trip through the PLF newsletter. I read the postings about your time in Cambodia and was deeply moved by your stories. And I was impressed with the spirit, energy and sheer craziness the two of you must have to take on the P-P rally ... a true trip of a lifetime. I caught up with your postings today and they are absolutely incredible! We will continue to follow you on your journey and want to wish you all the very best. Good luck with the gear box and the rest of the rally!