Inner Mongolia

ERENHOT, Inner Mongolia, Day 2, 10.40pm. 0.94 miles for the Mongolian Border

As I write, Adrian is in the car park with one of our support mechanics fixing the car. I thas been a truly exhausting couple of days. When we read reports of the last rally we were amazed that a small number of cars did not make it out of China. After the last two days we have had we are not any more. Our problem is not major, just difficulties with the fuel supply, probably because of the atmospheric conditions. We have been climbing steadily since leaving Beijing as Mongolia is on part of the Tibetan plateau: it is very hot and dry too. There is a solution ,it just needs to be worked on. Other cars have not been so lucky. Several cars are not drivable and need to go to Ulaan Bataar on lorries to be fixed. One car had an accident, luckily no one was hurt and the car has been made drivable. There is a big problem with cars not leaving China as a massive bond has been paid to ensure that no cars remain in the country. A few cars will actually be towed over the border and then put on a lorry in Mongolia in order to be taken to UB for repair.

It has been punishing, but nothing compared to what awaits in Mongolia. The past two days have been wonderful though. After a colourful,noisy send off at The Great Wall we had to negotiate the expressway through a very productive agricultural area. It soon changed and became far more rural and it all felt a million miles from Beijing. Strip farming, tiny villages made of simple, single storey houses made of rough brick, sometimes with a mud render. There was nothing about much of it that looked Chinese. Not a bit was distinctive. One could have been in any developing country. We spent last night, after a trouble free day, in Daihai. The contrast here is very great. Today it felt as if we had been through several different worlds before we had even had lunch.

We went through one city, Huhot, that was brand new; I mean literally brand new. We drove for 18 kms and all about was gleaming and newly constructed It was hard to take it in. Massive high rise smart apartments, 6 lane highways, a fabulous performing arts centre, new shopping areas. It must be big enough for several million people to live and it is all brand new. Everywhere you look in this place one sees evidence of the phenomenal growth of China. We all hear about it but seeing the astonishing amount of new construction is is breathtaking. Everywhere is being rebuilt, on a scale that it is hard to imagine. On the evidence that we have seen over the last two days the total world dominance of China is closer than anyone can imaging. Then on to the vast plains that reminded me of the Altiplano of Peru but without the llamas. All we saw were staggering vistas with a few flocks of sheep and the odd yurt.

We have been met with unfailing kindness by everyone we have come across. The cars have created huge excitement everywhere. One only has to stop for petrol or, as we did this morning, to get the tyres inflated, to attract huge crowds. People are exceptionally friendly. Everyone waves and and smiles and takes photographs of us. At any stop the cars are covered with eager people to investigate these strange, ancient vehicles. The Police, of which there are extremely large numbers, often line the roads as we are driving past and keep the local traffic at bay, waving and laughing juts as energetically as everyone else.

It is getting very late now and it has been an exhausting two days with the most difficult conditions soon to be with us in Mongolia. Adrian is still fixing the car and in just six hours we have to be up, ready for the border crossing which may well take some time. We have to leave in convoy and in order number. Tomorrow, all being well, we drive213kms to Sainshand in the Gobi where we spend our first night camping. The night after that we are in the comfort of Ulaan Bataar for two nights as we are due a rest day. Although how much rest there will actually be is debatable.

It is wonderful, exciting, difficult, exhausting, stressful,educational, and still we are only on day two. What lies ahead?

Once in Ulaan Bataar I will have more time and my brain will be less befuddled and I can tell you more. There is much to say. For now, unlike poor Adrian, I am going to sleep. I just hope that he manges to fix the car and get some sleep before tomorrow and Mongolia.