Haa valley is my special place in Bhutan. Remote, cold, outstandingly beautiful it is the essence of the spirit of Bhutan. Of the few tourists who come to this country only a round 3% make it to Haa and even fewer stay the night. A couple of years ago I heard about a civil servant, from Paro Dzong, who had converted the farmhouse that had been in his family for generations into a home stay. I went to look and couldn't believe what I saw. It was marvellous beyond words in every way. I've stayed there a couple of times since and never fail to be overwhelmed by it. I really wanted the rally to have that experience but, there were not enough rooms. The owner suggested that the local farmers would be happy to have guests in their houses - a first for them. And so it was. We were dotted about in the village and all agreed that we had the night of the rally. Bed rolls on the floor, a long drop, a cold tap, charming, hospitable hosts, bed tea and all wi...
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