An interlude in Hanoi

I have just returned from a brief sojourn in Hanoi, Vietnam.  What a wonderful city; it is everything one imagines the East to be but it so seldom is anymore.  Hanoi has all the mystery and charm of the Orient crammed into one part of the city known as the Old Quarter.  A jumble of French Colonial architecture, dark alleyways, frenetic street markets, pho stalls on every corner and lots of noise.  The French colonial buildings are everywhere painted in ochre with green shutters and interspersed with Chinese touches. There are mysterious Temples with the air thick with incense and ancient, tiny women praying.  The propoganda machine is working well,Uncle Ho would be proud.  The red flag flies everywhere and the references to 'The American war' are woven into the fabric of the city.

It was Tet, the major festival in Vietnam, Lunar New Year.  There was pandemonium in the food markets as everyone rushed to buy all the special foods they eat for the festival.  There were flower sellers every few yards too. An essential part of Tet is having the right sort of flowers in your home.  Peach and apricot blossom, kumquat trees and red roses were being snapped up by everyone and it seemed that no motorcycle was complete without a giant tree stuck on the back.

There is a huge lake in the centre of the city and this becomes the focus of the celebrations.  There are stage put up all around and there were huge, colourful concerts on Saturday night, the last day of the lunar year.  At midnight there is a huge firework display and it seems that the whole city is there to see it.  It is all very orderly, there are policemen and army guards every few yards.  The mood is effervescent  and very good natured.  I did not stay out for the fireworks, mainly because it was so cold, but my Hotel was very close and I could see the display from the comfort of a lovely bed.  There was one area of the lake reserved for senior army officers.  An area cordoned off by razor wire and surrounded by serious looking guards.  The Officer's had all they needed; a prime spot, chairs and a table with a kettle for tea and a television showing a noisy soap opera.  It was surreal.  There were giant balloons with dangling flags all over the lake too.  It was all magical.   The police have orders not to bother tourists but to look after them; the Country needs their dollars. It all felt vey safe and everyone was very friendly.
The next day was a hoot.  Everyone comes to the lake in their new clothes and has a photograph taken in front of the floral displays and the tableaux of tigers - it is the year of the tiger.  All the tigers had large gold bars around their necks, lucky money.

The downside of Tet was that everything was closed from Saturday afternoon but it was a wonderful thing to be a part of.

I LOVED Hanoi and will aim to go back and give it the time it deserves.

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