Lots of holiness and a couple of untruths.

I'm only going to say it once, but I will have to scream it, I'm afraid: "SHOULD HAVE BROUGHT THE BRISTOL".  There it is, out in the open, now we'll move on and deal with what we've got. 

Car 9 sometimes stops for no apparent reason, although, after a little rest, it will start again. It smells badly of petrol at random times. Going downhill it made a terrible grinding noise at one point and then stopped. For some reason, unknown to me, using engine braking down steep hills, and there are lots of them, second gear has to held in. Other than that, all's fine.

I'm confessing my own sins, just for balance. The navigator has made a few cock-ups. That's all I'm saying. 

We spend the night before last in Nara, the old capital. There are some interesting old buildings there, the best being Tödai-ji which houses the giant Buddha that claims to be the largest bronze Buddha in the world. In fact, the Buddha above Thimphu, Bhutan, is three times as high. The house, reputed to be the largest free-standing wooden building in the world isn't, actually. It was until 1998, but no more.  Anyway, untrue claims aside, it was lovely.  It was full of giggling school parties who were all having a great time. 

Yesterday, we had a shortish drive and a long climb to Mount Koya which is the holiest place in the country. The journey itself was rather dull, for the most part,  as we passed endless, very scruffy villages and small towns. Japan is a curious mix of the ultra fastidious and unbelievable tattiness. Many towns have endless American style strips with a tangle of wiring and no thought of urban planning. 

The very long climb to the top of the mountain was through cloud. It was all very fitting for our journey to the gods. 

What a place this is though. My favourite place in Japan so far.  More temples than you can shake a stick at and almost my new all time favourite cemetery. Recoleta in Buenos  Aires still holds that crown. It's around 500 years old and is still being added to. Everyone wants to be buried here or at least have a small part of them, such as a lock of hair,  kept for eternal redemption. It is full of giant trees covered in moss all adding to the atmosphere.  Fab. 

Tonight, we are all in staying in Temples.  As we are a large group, we have been split.  It's the best place we have stayed in so far, for me anyway.  The monks are charm itself, the place stunning, there is a great onsen, it's comfortable and we were served a vegan feast for dinner.  Exceptional food artistically presented.  We dined at 6 and by 7.30 were  ready for bed. The downside of that is that it's 0427 as I write.  But no matter, the alarm is set for 0530 anyway as we are getting up for morning devotions. I'm only sorry that we're not here or another night.