August: several months since I last wrote anything here. Much has happened and many travelling adventures accomplished. India and Bhutan in April. A slightly manic tour in the US, visiting no less than 8 states, last month. Now, I am back in Cambodia for two weeks only.
I am typing this on the bus from Siem Reap to Battambang, Cambodia's second largest city. I have been several times before but the maIn reason for this trip is to take the boat back to SR. This is only possible during the rainy season as the water is too low the rest of the year. Now it is full on rains; not that you would think that at this precise moment as I am looking out of the window at a bright blue sky. As in most of the tropics the rain comes in short, very sharp, bursts. It is actually a very lovely time to be here as it is so green. The endless rice paddies, that are usually brown when I am here, are emerald green and all the flowers are out. It is quite, quite beautiful, all fresh and with saucer sized butterflies dancing everywhere.
A bus trip in Cambodia is never without interest. To begin with there is the adventure of actually getting on to the bus. When you buy a ticket you are given a time to be picked up from your guesthouse, ours was 6.45am. No problem there, up at 5.30 plenty of time for a
shower, hair wash, grab a few things to stuff in a backpack to take, a delicious breakfast
cooked by Marina, and Lori and I are ready to be collected. Well, at 7.15 we are about to
call the bus company when a minibus turns up for us. This goes around Siem Reap collecting a
couple of other people and then we are taken to another bus stop and have to change to another
vehicle. This then goes around a bit more and then we are taken to yet another bus stand and
have to change again. This is now the actual bus that will take us to Battambang. We go
around town a little more, actually going RIGHT PAST our house and we set off, finally,
to Battambang. By now it is 8.45 and we have just got to where we started. A couple of extra
hours in bed could have been available but, never mind, it's all part of the true Cambodian
experience. Patience and an acceptance of all things 'Khmertastic' are an essential part of
existing here or else you could be driven truly insane. I usually leave my patience at the
border by the way as it is not a virtue I am renowned for at home.
When we finally get to Battambang, and, as I write we are about halfway through the three hour journey, we will be met by our friend Kim, who I have written about before. We will spend
the rest of the day with him before getting the boat early tomorrow. We may even get a ride
on the bamboo train. Our journey back tomorrow will take us across the mighty Tonle Sap lake,
it should be quite a trip. Another great unknown though as, the last time that Lori took the
boat the boatman got lost and what should have been a 6 hour trip turned into 14 hours. The
driver had to twice take the propeller off under water and fix it and, with no light
pollution, it was truly pitch black on the lake. So, who knows?
Well now, this finds me on a rickety bus, typing on my iPad, journeying past endless rice fields, seeing lots of happy water buffalo wallowing in the water, seeing ditches full of
colourful water lilies and lotus flowers, people bent double, like hairpins, planting the few
paddies left to plant, and listening to Joni Mitchell and James Taylor and Free on my iPod,
wondering where the last forty years have gone and feeling slightly melancholy. Not that I am
sad to be here, for all it's problems this is a hopeful, often joyful place with more
optimism than there has a right to be. But, for all that, I feel a strange sadness just at
the moment. It will pass, probably before we even get to Battambang. Maybe I just need to
change the music.
I am typing this on the bus from Siem Reap to Battambang, Cambodia's second largest city. I have been several times before but the maIn reason for this trip is to take the boat back to SR. This is only possible during the rainy season as the water is too low the rest of the year. Now it is full on rains; not that you would think that at this precise moment as I am looking out of the window at a bright blue sky. As in most of the tropics the rain comes in short, very sharp, bursts. It is actually a very lovely time to be here as it is so green. The endless rice paddies, that are usually brown when I am here, are emerald green and all the flowers are out. It is quite, quite beautiful, all fresh and with saucer sized butterflies dancing everywhere.
A bus trip in Cambodia is never without interest. To begin with there is the adventure of actually getting on to the bus. When you buy a ticket you are given a time to be picked up from your guesthouse, ours was 6.45am. No problem there, up at 5.30 plenty of time for a
shower, hair wash, grab a few things to stuff in a backpack to take, a delicious breakfast
cooked by Marina, and Lori and I are ready to be collected. Well, at 7.15 we are about to
call the bus company when a minibus turns up for us. This goes around Siem Reap collecting a
couple of other people and then we are taken to another bus stop and have to change to another
vehicle. This then goes around a bit more and then we are taken to yet another bus stand and
have to change again. This is now the actual bus that will take us to Battambang. We go
around town a little more, actually going RIGHT PAST our house and we set off, finally,
to Battambang. By now it is 8.45 and we have just got to where we started. A couple of extra
hours in bed could have been available but, never mind, it's all part of the true Cambodian
experience. Patience and an acceptance of all things 'Khmertastic' are an essential part of
existing here or else you could be driven truly insane. I usually leave my patience at the
border by the way as it is not a virtue I am renowned for at home.
When we finally get to Battambang, and, as I write we are about halfway through the three hour journey, we will be met by our friend Kim, who I have written about before. We will spend
the rest of the day with him before getting the boat early tomorrow. We may even get a ride
on the bamboo train. Our journey back tomorrow will take us across the mighty Tonle Sap lake,
it should be quite a trip. Another great unknown though as, the last time that Lori took the
boat the boatman got lost and what should have been a 6 hour trip turned into 14 hours. The
driver had to twice take the propeller off under water and fix it and, with no light
pollution, it was truly pitch black on the lake. So, who knows?
Well now, this finds me on a rickety bus, typing on my iPad, journeying past endless rice fields, seeing lots of happy water buffalo wallowing in the water, seeing ditches full of
colourful water lilies and lotus flowers, people bent double, like hairpins, planting the few
paddies left to plant, and listening to Joni Mitchell and James Taylor and Free on my iPod,
wondering where the last forty years have gone and feeling slightly melancholy. Not that I am
sad to be here, for all it's problems this is a hopeful, often joyful place with more
optimism than there has a right to be. But, for all that, I feel a strange sadness just at
the moment. It will pass, probably before we even get to Battambang. Maybe I just need to
change the music.
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