Our route.


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Broken cars, a procession and Popocatépetl.

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We’re back among the volcanoes and staying in atmospheric Puebla for our last rest day. I was  excited to see Citlaltépetl on the way here but even more thrilled to get glimpses of Popocatépetl having an afternoon puff through the haze. Such glorious names!  I remember reading about them when I was about 8, in my much loved ‘ Book of the World’ and here I am, seeing them with my own eyes. I swoon.  I just hope it’s less hazy tomorrow so I can see Popocatépetl better. Puebla had a very serious earthquake last year and there was another 7.2 near Oaxaca last month. The damage from these is evident in many places.  It’s been a hectic few days, some rather boring, but fast toll motorway; plenty of absolutely gorgeous mountain driving with steep narrow roads, vertical drops, endless potholes and those bloody ‘topes’ aka car killers. Hundreds of them - unmarked, unpredictable and truly nasty.  Of cours...
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Broken in Bolivia

Part I. On reading this mornings post I realised that it was full of typos and errors. Only 7 hours sleep in 48 hrs does that to you. Ironically, I only slept for three hours last night even though I could have had 5 and even though I was so tired I was practically hallucinating Typing on the running board with dozens of Bolivians staring at you doesn't help. Excuses! Anyway, did I tell you how hard the drive was yesterday? Not enough, I feel. Trust me, you never, ever want to experience anything like it. One of the mechanics told us that there were sheer drops of over a thousand feet on the narrow 'road' too. I'm almost glad it was dark. We had our own 'death road'. Actually, the people in the Plaza were rather sweet and polite and all dressed in their Sunday best. One local entrepreneur even came with a camera and portable printer and was charging people to create an instant postcard. Every mantelpiece in Sucre will now be displaying a family p...
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'It's down at the end of a lonely street named Heartbreak Hotel'

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Our temporary address is: 75 Jailhouse Lane Graceland r v park, Behind the Heartbreak Hotel, Elvis Presley Boulevard, Memphis, Tennesse. Please send all correspondence there. Does it get any better? We were woken at Loretta's by the sound of trees being hammered all around us. We thought that some lumberjacks had started working and hadn't noticed we were there. It turned out to be several woodpeckers tapping the hell out of the trees above us. We went to see Loretta; her plantation house is gorgeous but some of the ornamentation is a little unnecessary, I feel. There is a massive museum on the ranch devoted to all things Loretta. It is like a giant version of the, sadly now defunct, Liberace museum that used to be in Los Vegas. She has obviously never had a good clear out and a trip to the dump. Every item of clothing ever worn, not just by her but by her family too is there, along with 50 million other items she has owned or been given. One of my favourite exhibits...
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